Bellini Sewalong: Assembling the collar September 17 2014

Today we’ll be assembling our collar pieces and I’ll show you how to get a nice, clean finish.

You should have your collar pieces ready. You’ll have two collar pieces cut out, with one piece already interfaced. You only need the straight collar for View A, or the scalloped collar for View B. I’m going to be demonstrating both so I have four pieces!

The first thing I like to do when sewing collars is to mark the corners so I can sew it as accurately as possible.

For the straight collar, mark 15mm (5/8”) from the side of the collar, and the same from the outer edge to make a cross at the corner. Do this for both corners.

For the scalloped collar, it’s a little more complicated as the shape has interior and exterior corners.

Mark the outer corners as follows. Draw two lines, each 15mm (5/8”), from the side of the collar and the outer edge to make a cross at the corner. Do this for both corners.

For the interior corners, holding your ruler parallel to the start of the curve, draw a line 15mm (5/8”) from the edge.

Repeat with the ruler parallel to the end of the previous scallop. You should end up with crosses for each corner like in the picture below.

If you haven’t already, re-set your machine for a seam allowance of 15mm (5/8”). You will be sewing both the short edges of the collar plus the outside edge, don’t sew up the inside edge, leave that open.

Sew up the first straight edge of the collar...

...then stop and pivot when you get to your pencil cross.

Raise the presser foot with the needle down, and turn the collar, continuing to sew down the outside edge. Repeat when you get to the pencil cross at your other corner.

You should end up with a precise seam line that follows the guides you drew.

For the scallop collar it’s a little more tricky.

You’ll need to carefully follow the curved edges. Go slowly for best results.

Pivot when you get to each marked corner. Raise the presser foot with the needle down, and turn the collar to the new direction.

Here’s how it should look.

Trim as close to the seam as you dare! For my fabric, this is around 2-3mm (1/8”) from the seam. You’ll also want to trim both corners straight across like in the image below.

For the scalloped collar, I trimmed at around 2-3mm (1/8”) from the seam all the way around the seam. Then I trimmed a little more away from the inside corners.

Turning your collar the right way out should leave you with something like this.

Here’s a quick video with some tips on how to press the straight collar.

 

It should end up like this, with the seam pressed slightly towards the undercollar.

You can see the seam from the bottom of the collar...

...but from the top of the collar it isn’t visible.

Here’s a quick video with some tips on how to press the scalloped collar.

 

You’ll end up with something like this, ideally with the seam pressed slightly towards the undercollar.

That’s all for today folks. Please leave a comment below if you have any questions.