Cosmo sewalong: The leg slit variation October 26 2015

OK, I'm going back to step 2 of the instructions, which is about attaching lace trim to the skirt hem edge.

It's fairly straightforward in the instructions, featuring a split at the centre back so you can walk. For my red version, I made a walking slit on the front left above the left knee, and I'm going to cover how to do that in this post.

First, decide on the position of your walking slit and how deep it's going to be. I placed mine right above my left knee and a little longer than the slit that's marked at centre back. I actually measured it out with a tape measure on my body to make sure I would be comfortable with the length, as a lot of leg will be visible ;-)

I began by trying to make the shape of the leg split with the lace trim, scallop edge facing down. I tried to use the shape of the scallops to make the curve as far as possible.

Once I was happy with the position, I cut into my trim, around the flowers, leaving overlapping edges where the pieces joined each other.

I trimmed the overlapping edges around the flowers as far as possible.

Where the cords were hanging out, which happened in a couple of places, I tried to trim them off so there wouldn't be any ends hanging out.

Where there was a really long piece (like the one I'm pointing to below),  I tucked it in.

Here it is with the end tucked under an adjacent flower.

Don't forget to separate the dress fabric from the lining before you pin - this time you are sewing through the lace and the dress fabric only (not the lining, which is loose and hemmed separately).

Sew around the lace shapes using your small, narrow zig zag, as before. Then you can trim the loose edge away, above the stitching.

Note that the joins/overlaps in the lace are still only pinned together, don't sew those yet.

Here's how it looks at this point.

Then, you can cut away the dress fabric below the stitching line. Note the pins holding the overlap are still in place.

Note also that I haven't cut the lining yet (it's still intact).

At this point, you can go ahead and zig zag along the overlapping edges of the trim to join them together.

If there are any edges that need tidying up, or cord ends hanging out, you can use a needle and thread to join them together with small stitches. I ended up doing this because the lace ended up being a bit fragile under my machine after all that manipulation! 

The final step for the hem is to cut the lining into a shape that roughly mimics the leg split and hem it to the desired length. My personal preference for length is about 3cm shorter than the skirt hem, but don't forget, it has to be shorter than the fabric edge, not the lace edge, or it will show through. 

That's all for today, folks. As always, if you have any questions, please leave me a comment below and I will be happy to answer.