Bellini Sewalong: Attaching the collar and front facings (Part 2) September 20 2014

We’re now going to be addressing the inside of the collar, this part here:

We are going to fold the seam allowances into the collar, then sink stitch (‘stitch in the ditch’) from the outside to secure. The idea is to fold the seam allowance of the overcollar in, so that it covers the undercollar. You want to fold back about 12mm (1/2”).

Push the undercollar and blouse back seam allowances up inside the collar, and press them up if necessary. Then fold your over collar seam allowance inwards, but leave it overhanging the neckline seam by about 2mm (1/16”). The neckline seam should not be visible.

You should be able to fold right up to the shoulder seam as you already clipped the seam allowance there.

Put some pins in to secure it.

You’ll then have to press the seam allowance in place, removing the pins as you go. Here’s a quick video clip to show you what I mean.


Next thing to do is to put some pins in, but from the side we’ll be sewing. There’s a trick to this, as I’m demonstrating in the video.


Finally, take the blouse to the sewing machine and sink stitch along the back neck seamline, catching the edge of the overcollar in the seam. This technique is often called ‘stitch in the ditch’ as the stitches need to go exactly into the slight ‘ditch’ created between the collar and the blouse back. They should be invisible, or almost invisible, when you’re done. Hopefully this little video will help you understand what sink stitching is.


Your collar is now finished! Well done!

I know that was a lot of steps in the last two days... did everyone manage to follow along OK? Please ask questions if you want to, post them below and I will answer ASAP.