Bellini Sewalong: Finishing the facings September 26 2014

Finishing the facings is really optional, but mine were starting to fray already, so I decided to finish them. I chose overlocking, but there are several different ways of finishing this raw edge that you could choose, including pinking or zig-zag stitch.

Simply apply your chosen finishing technique up the long edge of the facing (no need to finish the short edges).

Once that’s done, you can finish the bottom edge. Fold the facing back so that it’s right sides together with the blouse front (inside out). Put a couple of pins in to hold it level.

If you haven’t already, re-setup your machine for a seam allowance of 15mm (5/8”).

Sew along the bottom of both facings.

Clip the corner as shown in the picture. Get as close as your material allows for the best result.

Turn the facings back round to the inside and push out the points with a point turner, or something else like a chopstick. I use a ballpoint pen with the nib retracted, or (very gently) use the closed points of my scissors.

Press the seam you just sewed and you should have a couple of nice, neat points. Clip away more of the seam allowance if you need to.

Now we’re going to anchor the top of the facing to the seam allowance of the shoulder seam. I placed my blouse on my dressform to stop me pulling it too tight, because that would pull up the bottom of the blouse which is not the required effect. It wants to lie flat under the blouse front when it’s being worn.

Put a pin in on both sides to hold it.

Double check that it’s lying flat on the blouse front and it isn’t pulling anything anywhere.

Sew a few stitches just to anchor the facings in place. You should sew it to the seam allowance of the shoulder seam – don’t sew inside that seam or you’ll see it on your finished blouse. A few stitches is enough, you don’t need to go all the way to the edge.

Trim the excess. It should be about 7mm that you’re trimming, but if it’s substantially more than that, try it on and triple check that it’s lying flat and isn’t pulling up the hem of the blouse.

You may also wish to finish the top edge of the facing at this point – again, you can pink it, zig-zag it or overlock it. I left mine raw.

Did you understand everything about how to finish the facings? Leave me a question below if not.