Bellini Sewalong: The Machine Rolled Hem September 29 2014

Today I’m going to show you how to make a machine rolled hem or ‘pin hem’. This will make a really narrow hem finish for your blouse. I will be demonstrating this without a rolled hem foot, but of course, if you have one, go ahead and use it.

So, let’s get started. The first step is to sew a row of basting stitches 11mm (1/2”) from the bottom edge of the blouse. Set up your machine to sew 11mm (1/2”) from the edge with the longest stitch setting and sew all the way from facing to facing.

As you sew, you’ll reach the side seams. Don’t forget, they should be pressed towards the back, so you’ll be sewing them towards the back. Put a pin in if you need to.

Now, press the blouse hem up along the row of stitching, at exactly 11mm (1/2”). Here’s a video with some tips as it can be a little tricky.

It should look like this – a little awkward at the ends but otherwise pressed neatly along the stitches.

Next, sew the pressed part onto the blouse, 1mm (1/32”) from the edge, or just as close as you can to the edge. Set up your sewing machine however’s easiest. My personal preference is to place the needle in the middle of the foot and eyeball it, sewing slowly to maintain accuracy. You’ll want to re-adjust your stitch length back to about 2-2.5mm (1/16”) as well.

Trim the excess as close as possible to the stitches. I’m using my shears here (because that’s how I roll) but if you have appliqué scissors, they are the best for this. Otherwise, you might find small trimming or embroidery scissors work well.

You’ll be left with a very small turned hem. Press it.

The next step is to turn under the hem and sew one more time, on top of the row of stitches that you just made. The bottom of the blouse at this point should hopefully line up with the point where the hem meets the facing.

I found the hem a bit narrow to hold pins at this point, but if you press it up (carefully, without burning your fingers), you should be able to sew it down without them.

While sewing, I decided I wanted to trim the seam allowance extra close at the side seams, but you should do this before you sew this seam. Clip as close as you can – there will be a lot of layers – but without cutting the stitches.

Here’s how it should look. Nicely lined up with the bottom of the facing, and very narrow from the inside.

We’re into the home stretch, people! Final bit of sewing is the buttons and buttonholes, coming shortly!