Cosmo Sewalong: The Zip October 28 2015

Hola! Today I'm going to be covering sewing in the zip and finishing the bodice edge at the top of the zip.

I'm not going to go through inserting an invisible zip in detail, but it's the same as for any other project. The zip is inserted in the side seam, and then sew the side seam below the zip as you would normally. My favourite method involves stabilising the zip edge with fusible interfacing, but you'll have to make that call based on your fabric. You'll want to insert the zip so the top tooth is about 3mm below where the lace joins the bodice.

Once the zip is in, you'll be attaching the lining at the zip edge by machine. To do this, first pin the top edge of the dress (the lace edge) to the dress to keep it out of the way. I've actually folded/rolled it up a bit to keep it away from the zip and out of the way.

Flip the whole lining up and over the part you just pinned, so the lining and the dress are right sides together. Line up the lining edge with the edge of the dress seam allowance along the zip edge.

Pin the lining to the seam allowance all the way down and sew it to the seam allowance/zip tape, as close as you can to the zip teeth (about 5mm from the zip teeth is perfect). Then you can place the lining right sides together to sew the lining side seam below the zip.

Turn the whole thing the right way out, press the lining where applicable, and it should look like the picture below.

You can trim away the lining, fabric and the top of the zip tape if it's sticking up (you can see I've trimmed mine with pinking shears).

Remember how you started the lace attachment seam 3cm from the zip edge? This is why!

Fold the lace trim around the zip edge, back on itself, and pin it in place.

If you have loads of trim trailing off, you can trim it to 15mm from the zip edge, or whatever seam allowance you're comfortable with.

Pin it in place so it looks something like this.

You can then sew the ends down with a zig zag stitch, same as for the applique we did earlier. It didn't come out well in the photos so here's the diagram from the instructions instead ;-) to show you where to sew.


The last part of the zip insertion is to add a hook and eye at the very top of the lace edge, to hold the lace trim together under the arm. And then the zip is done!

Almost finished now folks. It's the straps next, and that means... ROULEAU LOOPS. Stay tuned!